Bucharest

My journey from Sofia to Bucharest was painful. It started with getting up at 5am for 7am train, and got progressively worse.

The dilapidated wreck of a train was probably built in the 50s and has not been well maintained – or even cleaned – since. There was no air conditioning in 40C and the facilities consisted of a stinking hole-in-the-floor toilet with no paper and no running water. We were delayed in rural Bulgaria for two and a half hours waiting for a locomotive to arrive from somewhere.

I'm a big fan of train travel, but in this case I should have taken a bus. (Don't tell anyone I said that.)

Bucharest is a city of great contrasts. I've decided not to focus on the depressing state of many of its historical buildings. There are encouraging signs of development, but it's going to take a long time to recover from 50 years of disastrous economic and political management.

Palace of the Parliament

This monument to the cult of the former communist-fascist dictator is mind-blowing in its size (look at the cars in the picture for scale). The late "Hero of Romania" was apparently inspired on a visit to North Korea in the 70s and decided to destroy an entire neighbourhood and cripple his country's economy for decades to imitate the style.

Palace of the Parliament

Today, 70 percent of the building is empty.

Churches

I attended an Orthodox church service for the first time in my life. No, I haven't been born again, I was just curious.

Zlătari Church

And to my eyes, it certainly was curious. My experience of religious services is very much post-Vatican II, but I have vague memories of the style before the big changes in Catholic rites. This service reminded me of those rites, but even more arcane.

The altar is hidden from the congregation by an ornate floor-to-ceiling grill, which allows you to see that something is going on, but you can't quite see what. Several priests behind it perform a rite with chalices and crucifixes. At certain moments, a blind is lowered so you can't even see shapes moving. I presume that's when the magic happens, so it has to be hidden from the hoi polloi.

The rite is performed behind this grill

Occasionally, one or other of them steps through to say some words to the people, then withdraws behind the grill. 

Most of the congregation perform the sign of the cross repeatedly. Some write supplications (I presume) on pieces of paper, wrap them round thin candles (bought at the shop inside the church), then wait at the side of the altar grill until a priest opens a small door and receives them.

I slipped out discreetly during the sermon.

Old Town

The Old Town is alive day and night. It is packed with bars and restaurants of all styles and standards, though I couldn't find a single place that would show the Ireland v England rugby match the other day.

I stayed in a small hotel just outside the old town, close enough to be able to walk there and far enough away from it to be able to sleep at night.

Take a chance on Bucharest. It's going in the right direction and they could do with your money.

Photos on Instagram

Sofia

I travelled from Greece to Bulgaria by bus – quelle horreur! – as there are currently no international trains to or from Greece.

The first bad surprise was that Bulgaria is not in the Schengen Area, so the queue at the border was horrendous. Two hours it took to get to the top of the queue, then everyone on the bus had to get off to be controlled by Greek and Bulgarian police. 

The Bulgarian police officer asked where I was going. "None of your f***ing business, I'm a citizen of the European Union," I said in my head. "Sofia," I said out loud.

After that, things got a lot better, I'm happy to report.

Sofia, known as Serdica in Roman times and Sredets in the Middle Ages, is the capital of Bulgaria. Named after the church of Saint Sophia, the oldest, though not the most important, in the city.

Sofia herself

This is my first time in Bulgaria, so I didn't really know what to expect. I did take the precaution of getting advice from a native on which neighbourhood to choose for accommodation, however. She gave me good advice.

My hotel is right next to the parliament, the presidential palace, and multiple ministries and embassies. A bit like the 7th and 8th arrondissements in Paris, but fun.

Changing of the guard at the Presidential Palace

On a stroll around the city on my first evening I discovered a great bar called After 5. 

The barmaid was very friendly as were the two locals I ended up chatting with. One of them, Nikolai, is quite a history buff and very proud of his Bulgarian heritage. He filled me in on a certain number of points.

I visited only two of the many churches in Sofia: the Cathedral of St Alexander Nevsky (a Russian), and the Church of St Nicholas the Miracle-maker (aka Santa Claus, a Greek). 

Cathedral of St Alexander Nevsky

Church of St Nicholas the Miracle-maker

I discovered that Orthodox churches don't have a lot of seats or benches.

The origins of Sofia go back several millennia. The Regional History Museum – housed in the former Central Mineral Baths – tells the story of the city from the Stone Age to the modern era, through the various regimes that have risen and fallen (with a rather conspicuous gap for the period in the early 1940s). 

Regional History Museum

The current temporary exhibition is on the theme of "Childhood through Socialism" – an eye-opener for a westerner like me.

Childhood through Socialism at the Regional History Museum

A more palpable view of the history of Sofia is at the archaeological site near Serdika metro station, where they discovered a whole street from the Roman period. They had the decency to preserve the site, which is now open to visitors free of charge.

Remains of Serdica

A charming city, I'll be back.

Next leg

On Saturday morning at 07.00, I take the train to Bucharest.

Photos on Instagram

Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki (Salonica) is the capital of the Greek region of Macedonia (not to be confused with the neighbouring country, North Macedonia) and the second-largest city in the country.

I had the benefit of a local guide, Giotis, a friend of George "Delaney Blue" Betzounis (aka "The Ancient Greek"). He showed me some of the local bars and restaurants and introduced me to his charming friends.

With my host in Thessaloniki, Giotis (right) 

and his friends Christos and Lena

The ancient roots of the city are not obvious. Most buildings seem to be from the 20th century, but there are some archaeological sites being excavated, including the Roman Agora.

The Roman Agora

There are also some visible traces of the old city fortifications, the most impressive being the White Tower.

The White Tower

The tower itself is well preserved/restored. The "museum" on the inside, however, is a complete waste of time and money. 

The exhibitions consist solely of videos and photos. There are no historical artefacts at all. Not a single one!

All the captions are in Greek only. The audio guide – that you download to your phone if your QR code scanner works – makes reference to "exhibit 1.2", for example, but you have no idea which screen/image that refers to.

Admire the building from the outside, but don't waste 6 euros to see six floors of nothing. Five, actually; you can buy a fridge magnet on the 6th floor.

Next leg

On Wednesday I take the bus (ugh!) to Sofia as there are no international trains to or from Greece these days.

Chilling in Athens

I've been very lucky with the weather. A couple of weeks ago we all read about the inferno that was southern Europe and I was dreading the ordeal.

That all changed last week, just in time for my sailing trip, and the relatively mild temperatures are continuing now. I didn't even need the air conditioning in my hotel room last night. Perfect conditions for a relaxing few days.

On Day2, I took a 90-minute bus tour of the city to get a feel for its layout and to decide what I would visit – and what I'd avoid.

The Acropolis Museum was opened to display the artefacts from the rock in a safe, protective environment. The marble friezes are displayed in the same configuration as they were in the Parthenon.

Some of the panels are originals, the others plaster casts of the originals that, according to the prominently displayed notices, are "currently located at the British museum in London." (Or the Louvre, in some cases.)

The Old Royal Palace now houses the Parliament of Greece. The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is in front of the palace, guarded by the Evzones of the Presidential Guard in their pleated skirts and bobble-toed boots. The guard is changed every hour in a ritual of high kicks and stamping.

Changing the guard

The Panathenaic Stadium was built in ancient times, renovated on many occasions, and was the site of the first modern Olympic Games in 1896.

Hadrian's Arch

Named after the Roman emperor, but historians are not sure why.

The Church of Panagia Kapnikarea is one of the oldest in Athens, in the middle of a busy commercial district. An old lady who entered just after me kissed several icons and made the sign of the cross (backwards) at each one.

Church of Panagia Kapnikarea

On Day 3 I went for lunch by the sea. The restaurant that had been recommended to me was full of loud backpackers, so I retreated to a more sedate venue next door.

I spent the evening sampling ouzo in a rooftop bar, souvlaki in a tiny family-run dive, and wine in a hopping downtown bar.

I'm taking the train to Thessaloniki on Sunday morning.

Arrival in Athens

Tap/click here to get updates by email.

I arrived in Athens by overnight ferry from Leros, where I left my fabulous hosts, Dave and Paula, after a week's sailing.

There is s free shuttle bus from the port of Piraeus to the metro station. The metro is clean, modern and equipped with escalators from street to platform, so I had no problems with my heavy bag. I got from ferry to hotel in under an hour.

My hotel is in the cheap-and-cheerful category: a simple, clean, rather old-fashioned room, but with all I need, including air conditioning. It's in the Plaka neighbourhood right next to the Acropolis. I recommend it.

Rooftop terrace, Hotel Phaedra

Day 1

I walked all the way round the Acropolis to get a feel for the neighbourhood. There are thousands of souvenir and ice-cream shops, of course, and grand terraces with mist-spraying fans, but if you go just a few metres off the main drag there are plenty of discreet tavernas and bars that are worth a stop.

The Acropolis, Athens

After more than a week in Greece it was about time I tried a gyros. I chose To Neoklassiko as my pork provider, with mixed results. The meat was very tasty, as was the accompanying mix of onion, pepper, tomato and sauce. The bread, however, was soggy – straight from the microwave – and the wine undrinkable. I abandoned it and had a beer. 

The staff were friendly and efficient. When I commented on the wine I was told they've been serving the same for 15 years. Maybe it's just me.

On my way home, I stumbled across what turns out to be an Athens institution: Brettos Bar. Founded as a distillery in 1909, it is now a thriving cocktail bar. I tried the Mediterraneo cocktail (ouzo, mandarin liqueur, fresh lemon juice, orange juice). Well impressed!

Mediterraneo cocktail

Tomorrow, Friday, I'll take a bus tour to get a better feel for the geography of the city.

From the Cyclades to the Dodecanese and good wine – at last!

For the last day of my sailing trip we're going to Leros in the Dodecanese, the home port of Planit Earth.

We lifted the anchor at 06.25 as the Sun rose over Donousa.

Sunrise over Donousa

The plan is to get to Leros and tied up safely before the storm arrives.

This is what we're trying to avoid

Leros

We arrived in Lakki on the island of Leros after a long, almost windless run of about eight hours.

The harbour master found us a perfect spot in the marina. It was a right squeeze, but the skipper handled it perfectly, with a little help from the crew. That should keep us safe during the expected hurricane.

Leros marina at Lakki

The town of Lakki was built by the Italian occupiers in the 1930s. They called it Portolago, but it was renamed Lakki when the island was transferred to Greece. The architectural style is described as Italian Rationalist or Fascist. Interesting, but not very pretty, in my opinion.

School, Lakki 

The restaurant in the marina, Skippers, is very good. They have a very interesting menu of mostly local produce and, best of all, a varied wine list. In my experience so far in Italy and Greece the options are usually white, rosé or red; here, there is an actual wine list. Oh joy!

Main courses at Skippers

The boss – Nikos , obvs – told me he was good friends with Jack Charlton's daughter back in the 90s. Olé, olé, olé!

Naxos, not Paros

The weather forecast for the next few days shows ever stronger winds, building up to gale force by Wednesday. This is not sailing weather!

We decided to skip Paros and make for Naxos, giving us the possibility to reach Leros by Monday evening. Leros is the end of the sailing part of my holiday.

Passing Paros

Naxos

We did not go to the main town on the island, but to a discreet village on the northeast side called Moutsouna. It's another unspoilt spot with only a couple of boats anchored in the perfectly sheltered bay.

Planit Earth anchored in Moutsouna Bay

The seafront consists of a small beach where lots of kids – all Greek, I'd say – were playing, overlooked by a couple of tavernas from where their parents watched.

We had a very nice dinner of salads, seafood and fried vegetables, all delicious. The wine was a little less special, sadly, but the beer was a good replacement.

Moutsouna – Greek or what?

Next leg: Leros.

Kythnos

We arrived at Kythnos on Saturday afternoon after quite a long haul, mostly by motor as the wind is refusing to cooperate, though we did hoist the jib for about an hour.

Arriving at Loutra on the northeast side of Kythnos, where it took us an hour to get attached with a combination of anchor and lines. 

There are no rings or bollards on the rocky shore, so we had to find a rock to loop a line around, which was a big challenge. But through the skills of the skipper, the first mate and a matelot from a neighbouring boat, we managed. I contributed by offering encouraging words throughout the operation (and a bit of elbow grease).

After lunch we took the dinghy to the shore to try out a local taverna and to stock up on essentials for the boat: beer, wine and water.

Sunday morning, we set course for Naousa on the island of Paros.

Corinth Canal to the Saronic Islands

Corinth Canal

The cruise through the Corinth Canal was an experience!

The canal is 6.4km long and takes traffic in one direction at a time, in convoys of several boats. 

We made the tail-end of one convoy by the skin of our teeth. Lucky break, as we would have had to wait a few hours in scorching heat for the next west-to-east run.

It took us 28 minutes to get through.

Aegina

Our first destination in the Saronic Islands is Aegina. We got there in four hours from the exit of the Canal, motoring most of the way through a slightly choppy sea, but with about an hour under sail.

We anchored off the main town and had lunch on board.

The town of Aegina is a dense matrix of narrow paved streets, packed with small shops and tavernas. The most obvious local products on sale are pistachios and natural sponges.

It's a popular holiday destination for Athenians, who can get to the island in about an hour by ferry. They share the space with quite a few foreign tourists. 

The flags on the boats in the harbour were mostly Greek – yachts, small commercial cruisers and fishing boats – with a number of chartered vessels anchored just outside.

The evening swim was in 32C – both air and water – under the blue underwater lights of the boat.

On Saturday we head for Loutra on the island of Kythnos, our first port in the Cyclades.

Photos: https://www.instagram.com/p/Cvjkbu7MjGC/

Gulf of Corinth

Day 1 – Patras to Nafpaktos

I arrived by ferry in Patras at 12.30 and took a bus from there to join my hosts, Dave and Paula, in Nafpaktos for our sailing trip through the Gulf of Corinth.

Nafpaktos is a picturesque port town on the northern side of the Gulf.

The Castle of Nafpaktos (or Castle of Lepanto) was constructed by the Venetians in the late 15th century.

The fortress played a crucial role during the Battle of Lepanto in 1571, in which the Holy League, led by the Venetians and Spanish, defeated the Ottoman Empire.

The town is very pleasant with very few foreign tourists. We saw one car with a non-Greek plate and heard very little English in the taverna where we ate delicious salads and fish.

Day 2 – Nafpaktos to Galaxidi

We raised anchor at 06.30 and headed for Galaxidi, motoring most of the way as the was very little wind.

Galaxidi is another unspoilt port, although we saw a few foreign boats in the small marina.

There are no beaches in the town, but there are several spots for swimming off the quays.

Here I got my first sea swim of the year. I had a few dips during the day, the last at 21.00 when the water temperature was 30C.

Day 3 – Galaxidi to the Corinth Canal

Departure at 06.20 this morning. The various weather forecasting services are giving conflicting information, so we don't know yet if we'll put the sails up.

We have a slot booked to go through the Canal at 13.00.

More photos on my Instagram account:

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cvg02NXMgNc/

Plan C (aka Plan A)

Meteorological conditions have changed – as they do – and the skipper has revised the plans.

We're heading for the Gulf of Corinth after all. The ports of Nafpaktos and Galaxidi are marked on the chart, then we take the Corinth Canal to the Saronic Gulf on the Aegean side.

The Canal is sight to behold, I'm told. I'll get back to you on that 

Meanwhile, I'm just about to arrive in Greece aboard the Superfast II, having left Bari last night.

Naples, bread and circuses

"See Naples and die."

That expression needs to be reinterpreted. The city – at least the parts I've seen – is manky!

Day 1

My first impressions of Naples were not good.

The taxi at head of the rank at the train station didn't want to take me to my B&B. His car was too big, he said, for the narrow streets in the neighbourhood – Quartieri Spagnoli – I wanted to go to. 

The second wanted to drop me "near" my digs, but I refused. 

The third said he'd take me, but for a fixed fare of €20. The owner of the B&B had estimated 20, so I accepted.

Upon arrival, the sight of bin bags strewn about the street in front of my door was not encouraging, and on my evening stroll around the hood I struggled to find the charm behind the squalor.

Scooters, some with whole families aboard (none wearing helmets, ovviamente), screeched through the narrow alleys, while pedestrians seemed to accept their lot as second-class road users and just got out of the way.

I'm beginning to regret following Lonely Planet's advice to "dive in [to Quartier Spagnoli] to uncover alternative street art and authentic trattoria eateries."

Here's hoping for tomorrow.

Day 2

Stepping outside the immediate surroundings of my B&B was a good plan. The shabbiness diminishes slightly as you go a couple of streets away.

However, the city as a whole is depressingly dirty. 

Even the historical centre – Centro Storico – is in a sad state of neglect and decay. The once-grand buildings now show tragic signs of wear and tear after what must be many decades of insufficient maintenance. The streets and pavements are cracked and uneven; crumbling facades are scarred with peeling paint; and abandoned properties and empty storefronts further highlight the area's derelict atmosphere.

Despite its potential for revival, the Centro Storico is stained by its dilapidated state, leaving visitors to face the stark reality of what was, no doubt, a majestic district now fallen into neglect.

The natives appear to be blind to the dirt and dereliction. Their dual obsession with Maradona and the Madonna seems to keep them happy.

Bread and circuses.

Day 3 – Sorrento

I decided to escape the ugliness of the city for the last day and took a day trip to Sorrento.

The contrast was worth the 80 minutes on a scruffy train, senza air-conditioning.

A seafood salad with a sea view is good for morale.

I leave Naples early on Tuesday morning bound for Bari, where I take the overnight ferry to Patras.

You can see my photos of Naples on my Instagram account: 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CvXjX3rMf6b/

Torino – city of Fiat, Lavazza, Martini... and a mediaeval forgery

Turin is an obviously prosperous city, an enchanting blend of history and modernity.

Its beautiful squares, like Piazza Castello and Piazza San Carlo, are a testament to the city's grandeur, and are surrounded by lively cafés.

The covered galleries, such as Galleria Subalpina and Galleria Umberto I, provide a very elegant shopping and strolling experience.

Turin was a prominent centre of Italy's industrial revolution, and its name became synonymous with Fiat, the iconic automotive giant founded here in 1899. The Lingotto building, once a Fiat factory, has been transformed into a multifunctional complex.

I didn't bother trying to see the infamous painted rag in its dedicated chapel next to the cathedral.

Two dinners and one lunch so far in Italy and I have eaten neither pizza nor pasta. I expect that will change at my next destination: Naples.

My train leaves Turin Porta Nuova on Saturday at 1pm and arrives at Napoli Centrale at 7pm.

You can see my photos of Turin on my Instagram account:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CvQE1CVs0Xo/

Subscribe by email.

Plan B

Click/tap here to subscribe to my blog.

You may have heard southern Europe is burning; figuratively in some cases, literally in others.

Greece is suffering record high temperatures at the moment, so Skipper has concluded the Gulf of Corinth is not the best place to go for a pleasure cruise.

The plan is still to meet up in the Peloponnese on 2 August, but instead of sailing from Patras through the Gulf of Corinth we're going to start in Katakolo and sail south and around the peninsula.

Here's the updated map of that section:

(Tap/click to see the map in Google Maps)

The plan

"When are you taking me sailing?" says I to Dave. 

"Are you free in August?" says he to me.

Dave and I went to secondary school together (1976-1981), then trained as computer programmers together and worked in the IT Department of Irish Life. Our paths diverged in about 1990, but we've been back in touch for the past few years.

Planit-Earth

This year, he's taking me sailing in Greece on his catamaran Planit-Earth, a 2021 Lagoon 46. 

You can read about his sailing adventures on his blog:  Planit-Earth.

Flights from Paris to Athens in August are a shocking price, so I decided to go by train and ferry. I padded out each leg of the outward journey to make it a holiday on the way to my real holiday:

• 27/07 Train to Turin (2 nights)
• 29/07 Train to Naples (3 nights)
• 01/08 Train to Bari (not staying)
• 01/08 Ferry to Patras
• 02/08 Arrive in Patras at 13.00.

I'm hoping Dave will be there to pick me up. If he's not, I'll get a bus to wherever he is.

The return journey is not fully planned yet. The idea is to spend a couple of days in Athens and Thessaloniki after the sailing trip, then make my way (somehow) to Vienna, where I'll be spending the last few days of the holidays before taking the night train back to Paris on 24 August.

On the map, the red lines (train) are booked and confirmed, as is the dark blue (ferry). 

The green line is a rough idea of where the sailing trip takes place; the details will be decided by the skipper.

The yellow lines (as much train as possible) are not reserved and show just one possible route from Athens to Vienna.

(Tap/click to see the map in Google Maps)